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Cow gets head stuck in washing machine!

Curiosity got the better of a cow who got its head trapped in a fly-tipped washing machine drum

By Tom Peterkin
Published: 1:40PM BST 29 Aug 2008

A member of the public spotted the animal trying to free herself from the metal drum Photo: PA

The animal had to be freed by the Royal Society of Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and was fortunate to escape injury. But the animal charity warned today that fly tipping can cause animals harm.

The RSPCA was called to rescue the heifer from a field at Higher Fraddon, St Columb, Cornwall.

"It is one of the more unusual things we have had to rescue an animal from," Jo Barr of the RSPCA said.

"Young cows are quite curious, and she probably thought there was some food inside the drum," she added.

A member of the public spotted the animal trying to free herself from the metal drum.

RSPCA inspector David Hobbs, rescued the heifer earlier this month and she returned to her herd unharmed.

He said: "Most people hate to see fly-tipping as it is an ugly blight on the landscape, but incidents like these highlight that as well as the visual impact the rubbish can also endanger animals.

"The heifer was probably curious to see a new item dumped in the field and curiosity would have turned to panic once she got her head stuck in the drum and was unable to get it out.

"If people disposed of their rubbish properly many animals would be saved from injury and death.

"A large proportion of the injuries the Society's inspectors, animal collection officers, vets and wildlife hospitals deal with are caused by carelessly discarded rubbish and fishing litter."

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/2644821/Cow-gets-head-stuck-in-washing-machine.html

Funniest Thing You Have Found in Your Washing Machince?

We wanna know what is the funniest thing you have found in your washing machine? Rocks, Gum, Worms, Erasers......... We Wanna Know! Comment below! Thanks

The pict was found on a blog we read... (Religous related). --If you would like to read here is the link
http://neighbors.denverpost.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=123005449&p=748822

DIY Repair a Leaking Washing Machine

What do you do when you find that your washing machine is leaking? You could call and have us, ArchAngel Appliance Repair, come and fix it for you or you could simply purchase a new machine. Whether you have us come and fix it for you... costing $90 plus parts (unless in our intro period where you would get $30 off), or whether you buy another machine... you could end up spending your hard earned money.

You could just try and fix it yourself though! Below we will give you in layman's terms a quick response on how to fix your leak yourself! You will find out about hose, pump and tub leaks.

Different machines tend to have different problems. It is kind of like buying cars. Some brands produce lemons. And, you would be surprised that it is not always the more affordable brands that are lemon makers!

Ok, here goes!

First, you want to make sure that your floor drain is not plugged up with debris. Believe it or not, this could be a simple fix! We go on SOOOO many calls only to find this easy answer.

Washing machines come in two forms, the belt drive and the direct drive.

Upon opening the back of your machine.. pretty simple, just screws and screwdriver necessary... if you see belts then you've got a belt driven machine. If you don't, well then you've got a direct driven machine.

This picture is a belt driven machine.

If you have a direct drive machine, your owners manual should have pictures of the components in it. I'm sorry I just don't have a nice pic available and besides each looks different. Each one is different so you will need to refer to your owner's manual for diagrams. Also, there should be a number there to order parts. You may also call ArchAngel Appliance Repair and we can order parts for you or give you the number of our supplier.

The first thing you will want to do is replace any hoses you find that are leaking water. Make sure you emptied the washing machine of all clothing/ washing materials. Ok, now you want to move the machine away from the wall so you can watch what is going on and start a cycle. Look for drips around the supply hose from the wall. If you notice corrosion, cracks, or rusty hoses you definitely want to replace the no matter if you see leaks or not. Water and Electricity don't mix! Best to be safe and replace. If your hoses are fine I recommend replacing the internal washers at least... just another precaution. Since you are back there you might as well nip any bud that needs nipping! You can also check out your local home appliance part store or order through us special hoses. They make numerous types that 'promise' to not burst. Hoses cost anywhere from 6-20 dollars so that is much cheaper than new flooring.

The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Replacing the supply hoses is the easiest fix so we will start there.

Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores. Replacing them is very easy. They go on just like they come off! You will only need a set of adjustable pliers and a screw driver. Make sure to replace the gaskets with new ones while your'e at it....

Replacing the internal hoses would be the next issue if you see no leaks or issues with your supply hoses. Remember earlier we were talking about the two different types of machines? Well here is where that comes into play. If you opened your machine earlier when we were figuring this out, well then you won't need this info. If not... here is how to open your machine:: The belt drive machines usually have rear access panels that simply unscrew. So if this is you, go for it! Open that puppy up! If not, and you have a direct drive machine well then remove the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flip up the lid. You can then pull up the cabinet clips and take off the entire cabinet. Sounds tricky, huh? Well, it really isn't just sounds tricky. Next you want to start a cycle and watch for leaks. If you don't see leaks right away look for other clues that tell you there has been a leak. Remember, the weather makes air expand and contract. Your hoses can do the same thing depending on the temperature. Look for calcium and rust deposits. Where there is water, there will be deposits. It's kinda like my kiddos. Where there are children, there will be a long trail of fingerprints! The picture shows where you will find leaks most times too, or signs of leaks.

Do not touch your machine while running water or working a cycle! Simply watch. And, Always Always Always unplug the machine before making any repairs once you find the leaky culprit!

Now, most hoses are applied using something called a spring clamp. You remove these with your pliers. Look for leaks around these clamps. I suggest going ahead and nipping more buds by replacing these spring clamps with worm-drive clamps. You can get these at most local part suppliers. If you notice your hose is indeed cracked you will need a new one of those as well. You can order one through us if you need. Just get your model number and give us a call. If you have trouble finding your model number look on our website at http://www.archangelappliancerepair.com or click here: Visit My Website It looks like alot of reading but there are pictures below the intro info.

Now here is a tip. If you go to www.searspartsdirect.com. you will be able to find diagrams for your specific appliance. We never recommend actually purchasing from them though as the prices are a little steep. We use a supplier out of Spartanburg and Greenville and have software linked with them where we can see this information, but as an individual if you need diagrams and part numers using the Sears site works perfect. All you need is your model number and brand!

Another tip is if you are going to make face to face contact with a parts dealer, copy all your info on your model number plate. You never know what you may need and this can save you a trip. Some appliances require extra digits that others do not.

The next thing that may be leaking is your pump. Now, there isn't an easy way for me to tell you to replace this... we appliance guys just look at it and know. Now, this can be a very very challenging repair to do yourself and I only recommend for the true Do It Yourselfers with a good amount of tool experience. Depending on your brand and model you will need to study the drawings you have in your owners manual or by going to the Sears site I recommended earlier. You WILL NOT receive directions when you order parts. Remember that! The best advice I can give you is pay attention to how you take it apart and write notes. Then, just do the reverse on putting on the new pump. So, in the event you order parts and find you can't put the parts on, we can help you if you need. Just call us.

The last thing that could be causing your leak is worn out tub fittings. Again, this is not an easy repair. This is in my opinion the most challenging repair. You may need a new air dome seal, center post gasket, or tub seal itself. Each of these parts range in the $5 to $30 range.

If you have drips coming from around your tub, the tub seals are the issue and must be replaced. If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is causing your leak. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle. If you still have leaks the last thing to do is...

Again, you will need drawings and info from your parts supplier. You will also need a special wrench to complete the task of replacing these parts. You can get one for a bout $20. This is called a Spanner Wrench. You'll need the top of your machine open....You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Website ) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals which secure the outer tub to the cabinet itself. Each one has a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Sometimes rust collects around one of these seals and causes a leak. You can get a new tub seal kit and it will contain four new bolts along with a oversized rubber and metal washer for each that will seal small leaks. If you see only one leaking, fine, but go ahead and replace all four to be careful and again, nip those buds! You may also find that the tub is completely rusted through which would mean you need a new tub or machine. This is a decision based mainly on price of the tub versus price of a new machine. Each brand is different. We promote fixing your machine and keeping them out of landfills..... but the choice in the end is yours.

WELL! I don't know about your but I'm just about beat after all that writing! If you wanna give it a go and fix your own washer leak I hope this info helps. If you have any other questions just give me a holler at my blog or on my website and as always,

OH, one last thought......if you are looking into buying a new machine, I strongly advise a simple top loader. Those darned new confangled front loaders are much more trouble than they are worth. You can't go wrong with the simple versions.

Food for Thought,

ArchAngel

DIY: Staying Green by Buying Used Cheap Appliance Parts

Here is yet another interesting article and a fabulous blog with an article on how to use old appliance parts! I found them on the wonderful world wide web.... Now, at ArchAngel we can't take part in this as we cannot put used appliance parts on folk's appliances but you can bet your bottom dollar we get into the great tips on how to use parts for everyday items and sculpture! We here at ArchAngel simply recycle all metals from parts and old appliances upon installs.... But, for the typical Do It Yourself-er.... well, this is a nice article, especially with our Green Company principles. So, here it is for you to peruse and digest....

Food for thought, ArchAngel

Staying Green by Buying Used Cheap Appliance Parts

With more and more people looking for new ways to reduce their carbon footprint, used cheap appliance parts

are fast gaining recognition as not only an economical alternative but an earth friendly one as well. However; finding and buying them is not as easy as walking into an applinace repair shop and simply plunking down cash on new parts.

Eco Friendly

So how does buying used cheap appliance parts

help the invironment? To start with, by recycling anything made from metal, you are avoiding new energy having to be expended to produce the metal and then the part itself. Also, when you repair your household appliance with a used appliance part, it is one more item that will not end up taking up space in a land fill.

Find them Online

So where and how can someone who is interested in cutting their carbon footprint this way find good used cheap appliance parts? Of course now just about any type of appliance part can be purchased over the Internet and there are new website services that specialize specifically in cheap used appliance parts.

Dont Buy Junk

However; there are a few things that you should know before you head out blindly searching the Internet for the part or parts that you need. Start of by familiarizing yourself with what a viable used appliance part looks like. Then only buy from an online source that is willing to provide you with good clear pictures of what you are buying.

Moving Parts

Also, if the part you are interested in has any moving parts such as bearings that tend to wear out, you may want to consider buying these new seperatly. That may take a little research but it will be worth it. One place to start would be to check with an online bearing specialist and see if they have any in stock that will fit the appliance part that you are buying.

Written by Alexandria Everheart. ARTICLE FOUND AT: http://www.articlesbase.com/sales-articles/staying-green-by-buying-used-cheap-appliance-parts-558899.html

ArchAngel Appliance Repair & Installs

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Yellow Book Ad & DIY Questions

Look for us in the Real Yellow Pages next month in Asheville!
So Exciting!

For DIY Questions Please use our Website Contacts Page... We are getting too much Spam and Cannot Accept Straight Emails... Thanks! Visit My Website to Enter DIY Questions

Mystery Continued.....

Cont'd from before.....most excellent reading if you are into DIY work!!!

THIS IS WHERE I FLY OFF ON A TANGENT:

Actually, not to put too fine a point on it, but once the defrost cycle is over, the defrost timer DOESN'T actually turn on the compressor and fan. That's because the fridge might not need any cooling right then. At the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost timer restores power to the fridge's thermostat (more correctly called a "cold control"). The thermostat then closes the circuit to the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan only if the fridge needs cooling.

In the rest of this post, the word "thermostat" will be used for both the cold control and the defrost thermostat, but it should be obvious from the context which thermostat is being referred to.

So, the defrost timer switches power between the defrost heater and the fridge's thermostat (or "cold control"), and the thermostat then inturrupts that power or allows it to flow to the compressor and evaporator fan simultaneously.

So, typically, both the evaporator fan and the compressor motor will both be running (or both be not running) at the same time. If the compressor is running, but you don't detect any breeze whatsoever in the freezer compartment with your hand (or by the smoke rising from a lit cigarette or piece of smoldering cotton string), then it indicates a problem with the evaporator fan not working, and therefore no cold air being blown into the freezer and fresh food compartments.

Similarily, if the evaporator fan is blowing air, but the compressor is not running, it could be a problem with the compressor motor, perhaps the starting relay which starts the compressor motor.

Having the compressor and the evaporator fan both off at the same time is normal. The fridge may be cold and the thermostat has shut off the cooling circuit. Alternatively, the fridge could be in a defrost cycle. However, if both the compressor and evaporator fan are off for what seems like an unreasonably long time, and the food in your freezer is starting to melt, then there's a good liklihood that the defrost timer is STUCK in defrost mode.

AND THIS IS WHERE I COME BACK TO THE SUBJECT AT HAND.

The defrost timer location will be different on every fridge, so you have to find out where it is on your make and model.

Defrost timers will have their output shaft exposed so that if you mark the position of the shaft on the timer with a felt pen, you can check it an hour or two later to confirm that the timer shaft is turning. Also, having the output shaft of the timer exposed allows an appliance repairman to manually advance the defrost timer to check the operation of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to see if they're working. This is normally done by turning the output shaft of the defrost timer with a screw driver, but since you can damage the timer by turning that shaft backwards the screwdriver slot will be designed in such a way that the shaft can really only be turned in one direction with a screw driver.

If you ever notice that your frost free fridge has suddenly stopped working completely, it's worth advancing the defrost timer to see if the fridge is stuck in defrost mode. If you hear a "click" and the fridge comes back to life, then the problem was that the defrost timer was stuck, probably in the defrost mode. That tells you it's a good idea to replace your defrost timer before that happens again.

If, on the other hand, if the defrost timer is stuck in the "run" mode, or the defrost heater isn't working, the usual result will be frost forming around the cold air vents in the freezer compartment, and frost forming in your frost free fridge's freezer compartment. In that case, advance the defrost timer until the compressor and fan shut off, indicating that the defrost timer is now diverting power to the defrost heater instead. Try manually advancing the defrost timer to perform several defrost cycles in a row to melt the accumulated frost. If doing that doesn't help, then the defrost heater is probably not working and needs to be replaced. Normally, a repairman will also replace the defrost thermostat at the same time as he replaces the defrost heater because the cost of the defrost thermostat is only 2 or 3 dollars. So, replaceing it at the same time as the defrost heater is mostly a matter of preventative maintenance. Those 2 or 3 dollars could save a $50 or $60 service call a few months down the road.

Finally, if you ever see water dripping from the roof of the fresh food compartment of your frost free fridge, the problem is that the melt water from the defrost cycle isn't draining away. Most often the problem here is that dirt has clogged the drain hole in the drip pan under the evaporator coils. There will normally be a cover of some type in the freezer compartment of your fridge. Removing that cover exposes the fan and evaporator coil (which is easily damaged because of all the thin aluminum fins covering it's surface). By poking a flexible (stranded) wire into the drain hole of the drip pan under the evaporator coil, you can usually unclog the drain hole and allow the melt water to drain away as it should.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE FOLLOWING:

SO, If you come home from work on a friday afternoon and discover your fridge has decided to quit working, proceed as follows:

0. If it's winter, store the perishibles in the trunk of your car to keep them frozen. Keep the fridge door closed as much as possible to keep the interior of the fridge cold.

1. Does the fridge light come on when you open the door. If not, then the fridge isn't getting power.

2. If there's power to the fridge, listen to see if the compressor is running at all.

3. If the compressor is running, try to detect a breeze in the freezer compartment. If there's no breeze, the problem is that the fan isn't turning.

4. If the compressor isn't running, but the fan is, then the problem is most likely the compressor's start relay or something called the "start capacitor" or the "run capacitor" which the compressor motor needs to start.

5. If neither the compressor nor fan are running, then the fridge may be stuck in defrost mode and the prime suspect is the defrost timer. If you know where it is on your fridge, advance the defrost timer manually by turning the output shaft with a screw driver.

6. If the fridge doesn't spring to life now, then you've covered 90 percent of the most common problems, and it's time to call a repairman.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE ABOVE.

It's standard practice to replace the defrost thermostat whenever the defrost heater is replaced. That's because it's an inexpensive part, and replacing it whenever the defrost heater is replaced is good preventive maintenance.

Normally, the defrost timer is only replaced as needed. However, since it's the "brains" behind a frost free fridge, I think it's a good idea to replace the defrost timer every 10 years or so. If you wait for a sale, you can buy defrost timers for under $10 each. If you have to buy one in a hurry, you're looking at $20. If you have to pay to get your fridge fixed in a hurry, the company fixing your fridge will prolly charge you about $35 for it. It's best to replace it every 10 years or so for about $10 a pop.