DIY Repair a Leaking Washing Machine

What do you do when you find that your washing machine is leaking? You could call and have us, ArchAngel Appliance Repair, come and fix it for you or you could simply purchase a new machine. Whether you have us come and fix it for you... costing $90 plus parts (unless in our intro period where you would get $30 off), or whether you buy another machine... you could end up spending your hard earned money.

You could just try and fix it yourself though! Below we will give you in layman's terms a quick response on how to fix your leak yourself! You will find out about hose, pump and tub leaks.

Different machines tend to have different problems. It is kind of like buying cars. Some brands produce lemons. And, you would be surprised that it is not always the more affordable brands that are lemon makers!

Ok, here goes!

First, you want to make sure that your floor drain is not plugged up with debris. Believe it or not, this could be a simple fix! We go on SOOOO many calls only to find this easy answer.

Washing machines come in two forms, the belt drive and the direct drive.

Upon opening the back of your machine.. pretty simple, just screws and screwdriver necessary... if you see belts then you've got a belt driven machine. If you don't, well then you've got a direct driven machine.

This picture is a belt driven machine.

If you have a direct drive machine, your owners manual should have pictures of the components in it. I'm sorry I just don't have a nice pic available and besides each looks different. Each one is different so you will need to refer to your owner's manual for diagrams. Also, there should be a number there to order parts. You may also call ArchAngel Appliance Repair and we can order parts for you or give you the number of our supplier.

The first thing you will want to do is replace any hoses you find that are leaking water. Make sure you emptied the washing machine of all clothing/ washing materials. Ok, now you want to move the machine away from the wall so you can watch what is going on and start a cycle. Look for drips around the supply hose from the wall. If you notice corrosion, cracks, or rusty hoses you definitely want to replace the no matter if you see leaks or not. Water and Electricity don't mix! Best to be safe and replace. If your hoses are fine I recommend replacing the internal washers at least... just another precaution. Since you are back there you might as well nip any bud that needs nipping! You can also check out your local home appliance part store or order through us special hoses. They make numerous types that 'promise' to not burst. Hoses cost anywhere from 6-20 dollars so that is much cheaper than new flooring.

The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Replacing the supply hoses is the easiest fix so we will start there.

Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores. Replacing them is very easy. They go on just like they come off! You will only need a set of adjustable pliers and a screw driver. Make sure to replace the gaskets with new ones while your'e at it....

Replacing the internal hoses would be the next issue if you see no leaks or issues with your supply hoses. Remember earlier we were talking about the two different types of machines? Well here is where that comes into play. If you opened your machine earlier when we were figuring this out, well then you won't need this info. If not... here is how to open your machine:: The belt drive machines usually have rear access panels that simply unscrew. So if this is you, go for it! Open that puppy up! If not, and you have a direct drive machine well then remove the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flip up the lid. You can then pull up the cabinet clips and take off the entire cabinet. Sounds tricky, huh? Well, it really isn't just sounds tricky. Next you want to start a cycle and watch for leaks. If you don't see leaks right away look for other clues that tell you there has been a leak. Remember, the weather makes air expand and contract. Your hoses can do the same thing depending on the temperature. Look for calcium and rust deposits. Where there is water, there will be deposits. It's kinda like my kiddos. Where there are children, there will be a long trail of fingerprints! The picture shows where you will find leaks most times too, or signs of leaks.

Do not touch your machine while running water or working a cycle! Simply watch. And, Always Always Always unplug the machine before making any repairs once you find the leaky culprit!

Now, most hoses are applied using something called a spring clamp. You remove these with your pliers. Look for leaks around these clamps. I suggest going ahead and nipping more buds by replacing these spring clamps with worm-drive clamps. You can get these at most local part suppliers. If you notice your hose is indeed cracked you will need a new one of those as well. You can order one through us if you need. Just get your model number and give us a call. If you have trouble finding your model number look on our website at http://www.archangelappliancerepair.com or click here: Visit My Website It looks like alot of reading but there are pictures below the intro info.

Now here is a tip. If you go to www.searspartsdirect.com. you will be able to find diagrams for your specific appliance. We never recommend actually purchasing from them though as the prices are a little steep. We use a supplier out of Spartanburg and Greenville and have software linked with them where we can see this information, but as an individual if you need diagrams and part numers using the Sears site works perfect. All you need is your model number and brand!

Another tip is if you are going to make face to face contact with a parts dealer, copy all your info on your model number plate. You never know what you may need and this can save you a trip. Some appliances require extra digits that others do not.

The next thing that may be leaking is your pump. Now, there isn't an easy way for me to tell you to replace this... we appliance guys just look at it and know. Now, this can be a very very challenging repair to do yourself and I only recommend for the true Do It Yourselfers with a good amount of tool experience. Depending on your brand and model you will need to study the drawings you have in your owners manual or by going to the Sears site I recommended earlier. You WILL NOT receive directions when you order parts. Remember that! The best advice I can give you is pay attention to how you take it apart and write notes. Then, just do the reverse on putting on the new pump. So, in the event you order parts and find you can't put the parts on, we can help you if you need. Just call us.

The last thing that could be causing your leak is worn out tub fittings. Again, this is not an easy repair. This is in my opinion the most challenging repair. You may need a new air dome seal, center post gasket, or tub seal itself. Each of these parts range in the $5 to $30 range.

If you have drips coming from around your tub, the tub seals are the issue and must be replaced. If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is causing your leak. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle. If you still have leaks the last thing to do is...

Again, you will need drawings and info from your parts supplier. You will also need a special wrench to complete the task of replacing these parts. You can get one for a bout $20. This is called a Spanner Wrench. You'll need the top of your machine open....You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Website ) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals which secure the outer tub to the cabinet itself. Each one has a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Sometimes rust collects around one of these seals and causes a leak. You can get a new tub seal kit and it will contain four new bolts along with a oversized rubber and metal washer for each that will seal small leaks. If you see only one leaking, fine, but go ahead and replace all four to be careful and again, nip those buds! You may also find that the tub is completely rusted through which would mean you need a new tub or machine. This is a decision based mainly on price of the tub versus price of a new machine. Each brand is different. We promote fixing your machine and keeping them out of landfills..... but the choice in the end is yours.

WELL! I don't know about your but I'm just about beat after all that writing! If you wanna give it a go and fix your own washer leak I hope this info helps. If you have any other questions just give me a holler at my blog or on my website and as always,

OH, one last thought......if you are looking into buying a new machine, I strongly advise a simple top loader. Those darned new confangled front loaders are much more trouble than they are worth. You can't go wrong with the simple versions.

Food for Thought,

ArchAngel

DIY: Staying Green by Buying Used Cheap Appliance Parts

Here is yet another interesting article and a fabulous blog with an article on how to use old appliance parts! I found them on the wonderful world wide web.... Now, at ArchAngel we can't take part in this as we cannot put used appliance parts on folk's appliances but you can bet your bottom dollar we get into the great tips on how to use parts for everyday items and sculpture! We here at ArchAngel simply recycle all metals from parts and old appliances upon installs.... But, for the typical Do It Yourself-er.... well, this is a nice article, especially with our Green Company principles. So, here it is for you to peruse and digest....

Food for thought, ArchAngel

Staying Green by Buying Used Cheap Appliance Parts

With more and more people looking for new ways to reduce their carbon footprint, used cheap appliance parts

are fast gaining recognition as not only an economical alternative but an earth friendly one as well. However; finding and buying them is not as easy as walking into an applinace repair shop and simply plunking down cash on new parts.

Eco Friendly

So how does buying used cheap appliance parts

help the invironment? To start with, by recycling anything made from metal, you are avoiding new energy having to be expended to produce the metal and then the part itself. Also, when you repair your household appliance with a used appliance part, it is one more item that will not end up taking up space in a land fill.

Find them Online

So where and how can someone who is interested in cutting their carbon footprint this way find good used cheap appliance parts? Of course now just about any type of appliance part can be purchased over the Internet and there are new website services that specialize specifically in cheap used appliance parts.

Dont Buy Junk

However; there are a few things that you should know before you head out blindly searching the Internet for the part or parts that you need. Start of by familiarizing yourself with what a viable used appliance part looks like. Then only buy from an online source that is willing to provide you with good clear pictures of what you are buying.

Moving Parts

Also, if the part you are interested in has any moving parts such as bearings that tend to wear out, you may want to consider buying these new seperatly. That may take a little research but it will be worth it. One place to start would be to check with an online bearing specialist and see if they have any in stock that will fit the appliance part that you are buying.

Written by Alexandria Everheart. ARTICLE FOUND AT: http://www.articlesbase.com/sales-articles/staying-green-by-buying-used-cheap-appliance-parts-558899.html

ArchAngel Appliance Repair & Installs

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Yellow Book Ad & DIY Questions

Look for us in the Real Yellow Pages next month in Asheville!
So Exciting!

For DIY Questions Please use our Website Contacts Page... We are getting too much Spam and Cannot Accept Straight Emails... Thanks! Visit My Website to Enter DIY Questions

Mystery Continued.....

Cont'd from before.....most excellent reading if you are into DIY work!!!

THIS IS WHERE I FLY OFF ON A TANGENT:

Actually, not to put too fine a point on it, but once the defrost cycle is over, the defrost timer DOESN'T actually turn on the compressor and fan. That's because the fridge might not need any cooling right then. At the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost timer restores power to the fridge's thermostat (more correctly called a "cold control"). The thermostat then closes the circuit to the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan only if the fridge needs cooling.

In the rest of this post, the word "thermostat" will be used for both the cold control and the defrost thermostat, but it should be obvious from the context which thermostat is being referred to.

So, the defrost timer switches power between the defrost heater and the fridge's thermostat (or "cold control"), and the thermostat then inturrupts that power or allows it to flow to the compressor and evaporator fan simultaneously.

So, typically, both the evaporator fan and the compressor motor will both be running (or both be not running) at the same time. If the compressor is running, but you don't detect any breeze whatsoever in the freezer compartment with your hand (or by the smoke rising from a lit cigarette or piece of smoldering cotton string), then it indicates a problem with the evaporator fan not working, and therefore no cold air being blown into the freezer and fresh food compartments.

Similarily, if the evaporator fan is blowing air, but the compressor is not running, it could be a problem with the compressor motor, perhaps the starting relay which starts the compressor motor.

Having the compressor and the evaporator fan both off at the same time is normal. The fridge may be cold and the thermostat has shut off the cooling circuit. Alternatively, the fridge could be in a defrost cycle. However, if both the compressor and evaporator fan are off for what seems like an unreasonably long time, and the food in your freezer is starting to melt, then there's a good liklihood that the defrost timer is STUCK in defrost mode.

AND THIS IS WHERE I COME BACK TO THE SUBJECT AT HAND.

The defrost timer location will be different on every fridge, so you have to find out where it is on your make and model.

Defrost timers will have their output shaft exposed so that if you mark the position of the shaft on the timer with a felt pen, you can check it an hour or two later to confirm that the timer shaft is turning. Also, having the output shaft of the timer exposed allows an appliance repairman to manually advance the defrost timer to check the operation of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to see if they're working. This is normally done by turning the output shaft of the defrost timer with a screw driver, but since you can damage the timer by turning that shaft backwards the screwdriver slot will be designed in such a way that the shaft can really only be turned in one direction with a screw driver.

If you ever notice that your frost free fridge has suddenly stopped working completely, it's worth advancing the defrost timer to see if the fridge is stuck in defrost mode. If you hear a "click" and the fridge comes back to life, then the problem was that the defrost timer was stuck, probably in the defrost mode. That tells you it's a good idea to replace your defrost timer before that happens again.

If, on the other hand, if the defrost timer is stuck in the "run" mode, or the defrost heater isn't working, the usual result will be frost forming around the cold air vents in the freezer compartment, and frost forming in your frost free fridge's freezer compartment. In that case, advance the defrost timer until the compressor and fan shut off, indicating that the defrost timer is now diverting power to the defrost heater instead. Try manually advancing the defrost timer to perform several defrost cycles in a row to melt the accumulated frost. If doing that doesn't help, then the defrost heater is probably not working and needs to be replaced. Normally, a repairman will also replace the defrost thermostat at the same time as he replaces the defrost heater because the cost of the defrost thermostat is only 2 or 3 dollars. So, replaceing it at the same time as the defrost heater is mostly a matter of preventative maintenance. Those 2 or 3 dollars could save a $50 or $60 service call a few months down the road.

Finally, if you ever see water dripping from the roof of the fresh food compartment of your frost free fridge, the problem is that the melt water from the defrost cycle isn't draining away. Most often the problem here is that dirt has clogged the drain hole in the drip pan under the evaporator coils. There will normally be a cover of some type in the freezer compartment of your fridge. Removing that cover exposes the fan and evaporator coil (which is easily damaged because of all the thin aluminum fins covering it's surface). By poking a flexible (stranded) wire into the drain hole of the drip pan under the evaporator coil, you can usually unclog the drain hole and allow the melt water to drain away as it should.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE FOLLOWING:

SO, If you come home from work on a friday afternoon and discover your fridge has decided to quit working, proceed as follows:

0. If it's winter, store the perishibles in the trunk of your car to keep them frozen. Keep the fridge door closed as much as possible to keep the interior of the fridge cold.

1. Does the fridge light come on when you open the door. If not, then the fridge isn't getting power.

2. If there's power to the fridge, listen to see if the compressor is running at all.

3. If the compressor is running, try to detect a breeze in the freezer compartment. If there's no breeze, the problem is that the fan isn't turning.

4. If the compressor isn't running, but the fan is, then the problem is most likely the compressor's start relay or something called the "start capacitor" or the "run capacitor" which the compressor motor needs to start.

5. If neither the compressor nor fan are running, then the fridge may be stuck in defrost mode and the prime suspect is the defrost timer. If you know where it is on your fridge, advance the defrost timer manually by turning the output shaft with a screw driver.

6. If the fridge doesn't spring to life now, then you've covered 90 percent of the most common problems, and it's time to call a repairman.

IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE, READ THE ABOVE.

It's standard practice to replace the defrost thermostat whenever the defrost heater is replaced. That's because it's an inexpensive part, and replacing it whenever the defrost heater is replaced is good preventive maintenance.

Normally, the defrost timer is only replaced as needed. However, since it's the "brains" behind a frost free fridge, I think it's a good idea to replace the defrost timer every 10 years or so. If you wait for a sale, you can buy defrost timers for under $10 each. If you have to buy one in a hurry, you're looking at $20. If you have to pay to get your fridge fixed in a hurry, the company fixing your fridge will prolly charge you about $35 for it. It's best to replace it every 10 years or so for about $10 a pop.

"Mystery of your frost free fridge revealed"

I love to read advice and information from other folks in the field. You can learn so much when you are open to information and a little constructive criticism. So, that said, here is a post I found on the net that was absolutely wonderful! It is written in laymen's terms so most everybody can get it. It gets better as it goes too....I have the writer's credit at the end...Good job and well done Nestor!
Enjoy!
ArchAngel

The mystery of your frost free fridge revealed:
or "What every owner of a frost free fridge should know":

The way to tell the difference between a frost free fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge will have separate freezer and fresh food compartments, whereas a manual defrost fridge will have a freezer box at the top of the fresh food compartment. The fundamental difference between a "frost free" fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge has an automatic method of defrosting itself.

In a manual defrost fridge the refrigerant evaporates and absorbs heat as it flows through the channels molded right into the evaporator box at the top of the fresh food compartment. Since the refrigerant is evaporating in those molded channels, the evaporator box will be the coldest thing in a manual defrost fridge, and that is where frost will accumulate. You defrost such a fridge by unplugging it or turning the thermostat to "defrost" or "off" and waiting for the frost on the freezer compartment to melt.

In a frost free fridge, there will be an evaporator coil which is hidden out of sight which serves the same purpose as the "freezer box" in a manual defrost fridge. The refrigerant evaporates in that evaporator coil, absorbing heat as it does, thereby making the evaporator coil very cold. There will also be an "evaporator fan" which sucks air through that evaporator coil and blows most of the cold air into the freezer compartment, and a little of it into the fresh food compartment. Some frost free fridges have adjustable baffles that allow you to set the proportion of cold air sent to each compartment. The reason why the freezer compartment gets colder than the fresh food section is because it normally has more cold air flow through it.

Every time you open the door of the fresh food compartment or freezer compartment of your fridge, you let some cold dry air out of your fridge and some warm moist air in. The moisture in the air you let in is what causes frost to form on the freezer compartment of a manual defrost fridge or the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge. Ice and frost forming on the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge reduce the efficiency of the fridge because they act as insulation and prevent heat transfer between the cold aluminum coils and the air the evaporator fan is circulating over those coils and throughout the fridge. And, of course, frost reduces the amount of air flow through the coils.

This "automatic defrost system" consists of three components: the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. These three components work together to melt the frost off the evaporator coil.

Let's look at each of the three components in the automatic defrosting system of a typical frost free fridge:

1. THE DEFROST TIMER:
Just like you have a timer in a clothes washer that controls the valves and motors at each stage of the clothes washing cycle, every frost free fridge will have a defrost timer. The defrost timer in a frost free fridge is much simpler than the timers in washing machines or dish washers because there are fewer things in a frost free fridge for the timer to control. The defrost timer's job is to shut off the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan (together) for about 20 to 35 minutes every 8 to 12 hours and divert the power to the defrost heater instead.

2. THE DEFROST HEATER:
The defrost heater is just an electric coil heater that's positioned close to the evaporator coils so the radiant heat melts the frost off the evaporator coils. The melt water then drips down and is carried by a sloping drip pan to a drain. A rubber hose usually running along the back of the fridge carries this melt water down into a receiving pan sitting on top of, or around, the usually warm compressor motor. The water is then re-evaporated back into the room by the waste heat from the compressor. You can redirect this melt water into a drain and use your frost free fridge to dehumidify your house a little.

3. THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Once the frost is all melted off the evaporator coils, continued heating results in a rapid rise in temperature in the vicinity of the evaporator coils. The job of the defrost thermostat is to detect that temperature rise and break the circuit to the defrost heater, thereby preventing further heating and possible damage to the plastic and foam parts near it. (This is normally accomplished by simply wiring the defrost thermostat in series with the defrost heater.) Once the defrost thermostat breaks the circuit to the defrost heater, the fridge will then just sit there and do nothing at all until the end of the defrost cycle when the defrost timer shuts off power to the defrost circuit and restores power to the compressor and fan circuit once again.

THIS IS WHERE I FLY OFF ON A TANGENT...

This web site's server is telling me the post is too long, so I will continue it in another post to follow...

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Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 07-10-2008 at 01:29 AM.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f47/help-my-admiral-refrigerator-leaking-water-23441/

Wet Towels!!!

Don't ya just hate it when you stick your hand in the dryer expecting warm fluffy fresh towels and find a cold wet massive lump instead? What a way to ruin a perfectly good thought of showering... I don't know about you, but especially in the summer when I've been working in the yard or garden and I'm looking forward to an awesome shower... I like my towels fluffy, smelling fresh, inviting, and ready to sop me up! My wife and I have four children whom live at our house all the time and there are days she pops the towels in the dryer and attends to other chores... trust me, this has happened to me on more than one occasion! And, fellas, it isn't always her fault for not turning it on for a long enough period of time... could be something wrong with the machine! Let's see what's up...

So, for all you Do It Yourselfers out there, here are three tips to get you in the right direction to dry towels. First, you have to observe a few things to number down some possible causes because your drum belt might be broken or cracked, your heating element could be going out, or the vent itself could be stopped up.

First, test your drum and see if it is turning freely. Try and spin it by hand. It should turn but you want to feel some noticeable resistance. If it feels like it's spinning easily, your drive belt is probably over worn, stretched or broken.

If the belt checks out alright, try drying a couple of wet towels next. Use a setting which should produce the full amount of heat. Let the dryer run for about ten minutes while you take care of other chores. If the clothes are just only a little warm to the touch, you probably have a heating element malfunction which you will need to make a call to the appliance repair technician (me ;) ) to change. After ten minutes you should see a noticeable fluffing and warmth to the towels. They should be quite hot actually, especially when you only put a couple in. I never recommend Do It Yourselfers to change their own heating element. It just is simply a repair that a fully trained person should complete. Thousands of dryers every year cause fires... which leads me to an aside thought. Never ever ever ever dry your clothes when you are not home, not even just doing yard work. You need to be near to your dryer so you can take care of issues quickly if there was a fire. I also suggest keeping a fire extinguisher in the general vicinity of your dryer. They look like calm little appliances... but you should hear some stories of what I've seen!

If neither of these are the answer, then you probably are having trouble with your vent. First, check your lint trap and make sure it is properly cleaned. Next, go outside while your machine is running and see if there is a good amount of air coming out. If there is not much air coming out, you could have one of two problems. Either your dryer's vent fan isn't working properly or your vent pipe is plugged. Go back inside and take the pipe off the wall. While running, if there is air flowing out of the pipe then your fan is fine and your vent line needs inspection. We here at ArchAngel can clean your vents for you for a small fee if you don't want to do this. If there is no air coming out and you believe it is the fan, we can also do that for you as well.

If you want to give it a whirl and clean your vents...Check your vent pipe from one end to the other and take out all necessary debris. This can be a nasty nasty job. I always wear a mouth allergy cover... ugh yucky. -I also recommend simply purchasing a new pipe. I know, not environmentally friendly... but if you have a metal one you can recycle it. It is good to replace the line altogether though as fires are caused by thousands of these a year. It is also more efficient for your machine to keep your vents cleaned. Just easier and safer to go ahead and replace it.

A little preventative maintenance is nice as well.... keeping the lent trap clean and vents clean helps your machine run smooth for a much longer time. Don't put unecessary pressure on your heating element and other parts. Remember, your machine works for you so you work for it!
If you do these simple things you will have nice and inviting towels every time you go for some... we are so spoiled nowadays, I couldn't stand to not have my smokin hot towels!

Hope that helps! Food for thought,
ArchAngel

Range- Repair or Replace?

Kitchen range - repair or replace?

What is the true life of a kitchen range? Mine needs some repair and I don't know whether I should fix it or replace it. Thanks.

This is a cut and dry question/ answer...

Manufacturers give an expectant life of eight to ten years for a modern appliance. What the manufacturers won't tell you, however, is depending on oven features you may only get six. I suggest first sending me a little more information on what issue you are having with the range. You can only make a sound decision once you know the cost of repairing your appliance versus purchasing a new one. There are quite a few variables you must consider... we would need the model number and more info on what is going on with your range.... Here at ArchAngel we always would prefer you repair your current appliance and keep it out of the landfill, but this is not always feasible especially where costs are concerned.

We can repair your range for a flat fee of $90 plus the price of parts. We never inflate our parts price either.

Send us that info and we can further help you figure this out. Thanks for the question!

Food for thought,

ArchAngel

PHOTO CONTEST

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We wanted to remind everyone about our ongoing photo contest!
Let's get creative! Also, send your DIY questions to us as well at archangelappliance@yahoo.com. Please, no spamming...

How To Enter:

During the Contest Period, Submit a color or black and white photograph of your refrigerator or subject matter/artistic display; displaying your photo featuring your refrigerator's contents or your artistic creative license, imagination, differing mediums which answers the question: "What's In Your Fridge???".

Eligibility :
ArchAngel Appliance Repair's "Fridge Gone Wild" Contest is open to legal residents of Western North Carolina, who are of the age of majority in the jurisdiction in which they reside (and at least 18 years of age). *Children whom would like to participate must do so with the assistance of their parent.

Promotion Period :
The ArchAngel Appliance Repair's Fridge Gone Wild Contest ("Contest") starts on June 10, 2009 at 12:01 AM Eastern Time ("ET") and ends on August 15, 2009 at 11:59 PM ET ("Contest Period").

*Only hard copies will be accepted. Please do not send Jpegs. by mailing to:

Attn: "Fridge Gone Wild" Contest, ArchAngel Appliance, 77 Evans Road, Hendersonville, North Carolina 28739.

Include your Name, Phone number and address, paper copy of the permissions below and signature, (if child entry be sure to do so for the child as their guardian, do not send photos of the child themselves!) and a copy of your photograph or the child's artwork. Entries will Not be returned!

Submissions will be judged on creativity, uniqueness, overall look, humor, and how your refrigerator contents exemplifies Western North Carolina or you as a person/ hobbies/ etc. Photos must be original work by the individual and not copies or portrayed from other artists. Children (12 and under) may submit drawings in lieu of photography.

Limit :
Limit one (1) entry per person/email address/household.

Prize (s):

1st. 2nd and 3rd place & Child Winner prizes will each receive an ArchAngel Appliance Repair's "Fridge Gone Wild" Contest Certificate &

One (1) Grand Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Preventative Maintenance for Three Appliances valued at $99.95. and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $25.00.

One (1) Second Place Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Gift Certificate for One Appliance Repair valued at $90.00 (parts additional charge) and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $15.00.

One (1) Third Place Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Preventative Maintenance for One Appliance valued at $39.95 and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $5.00.

One (1) Child Winner Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: $25.00 Fun Depot Card
Winners :
Winner’s name (available after 8/20/09), visit www.ArchAngelApplianceRepair.com, or call 828-693-7905.

*All entries become the property of the ArchAngel Appliance Repair and will not be returned to the entrant. Submission of an entry shall constitute the grant of a non-exclusive, royalty free license to the ArchAngel Appliance Repair, and its' sublicensees, to reproduce, display, prepare derivative works, distribute to the public by sale or other transfer, and to utilize the photograph submitted for any purpose, including but not limited to publication on the World Wide Web, interpretive publications, and commercial uses. Entrants agree to grant to Sponsor and Organizer an everlasting, royalty-free, assignable, exclusive license to use, utilize, replicate, alter, adapt, modify, publish, broadcast, translate, produce derivative works from, distribute, present, play, sublicense and exercise all copyright and other intellectual property rights with respect to your contribution worldwide and/or to include your contribution in other works in any media now known or later created forever.

I have read the above and give permission to ArchAngel Appliance Repair to publish my photo and agree to the terms above:

______________________________

Signed Date

Our Website

Good Morning one and All! I've been busy busy busy with calls and haven't been able to write another blog recently...will do so this evening. Wanted to just invite yall to visit our website:
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Also, please visit our blog at: http://archangelappliancerepair.blogspot.com/

Thanks, see yall tonight with a new blog....
Food for Thought,
ArchAngel

DIY Question: My Kenmore washer.....

DIY Question: My older model Kenmore washer starts cycle normally and stops working right before it should drain and agitate. What could be the problem and can I fix it myself?

Answer: It sounds like you have a bad lid switch. A lid switch could cost between $15-30 depending on your specific model and can be switched out fairly easily if you are mechanically inclined... Note "mechanically" inclined.

On Kenmores, Top Load washers, you would start by removing the two screws in the console and some are under the front two trim pieces of the console, or one on each side in the back of the console. Lift console forward and flip over. The lid switch harness is generally in plain view which depending on your model the connection should be off right center behind the lid. In newer models, the lid switch is in the back left corner. The lid must be raised to remove the lid switch. Simply remove and replace with new lid switch.

On an older model, after lifting lid, two phillips head screws should be in the mid to back of unit's top lip opening. For the older one you will need to remove the connection wire to the lid switch and the two bronze clips found on either side of the unit cabinet. Then you will need to pull forward on the cabinet to get underneath to remove the 5/16th ground wire screw found under top of the cabinet. Next, replace these items with the new lid switch.

**Always be sure your appliance is unplugged before beginning any and all work!

And as always........ fix it don't trash it!!!

If you find yourself in a pickle.... give us a call! We can assist you!
Good luck and hope that helps!

Food for thought.....
ArchAngel

Garbage Disposer Tips

Do's and Don't when utilizing a garbage disposer, some things you may never think of:

Do:

• Run cold water while grinding wastes.
• Yes, grind beef bones, chicken bones, peach pits.
• Sniff Sniff....Grind lemon or orange peels to eliminate odors!
• Always let water and disposer run for several seconds after grinding is complete to clean out unwanted particles.
  
• Grind ice to clean the blades and impeller.

Don't:

• NEVER reach into the disposer with your hand, use tongs and only when the unit is unplugged. Many people have lost fingers this way!!!
  
• Do not grind fibrous foods like corn husks, artichokes, banana peels or celery.... fibers get caught between your blades and cause major issues with the functioning of the mechanisms. When in doubt, check your manual.
  
• Do not operate the disposer without running water!
• Do not use hot water for grinding, it melts fats which later may clog the drain... a plumber's nightmare!
  
• Do not grind coffee grounds. They aren't a problem for the disposer but they build in the pipes which can cost you money down the line....

Food for thought.....
ArchAngel

Do You Want $30 Bucks?

If you need to have your appliance repaired and want to put $30 back in your wallet.... then Call Us!

Repair is always $90 less $30= $60 plus part now till August 15, 2009

NO matter the time it takes us to complete your repair.


Let us help you get back in business... and put more money in your wallet!

Blessings-
ArchAngel
www.archangelappliancerepair.com for further details

"What's in YOUR Fridge???"

What's in YOUR Fridge???

"Fridge Gone Wild" Photo Contest: Submit a color or black and white photograph of your refrigerator or subject matter/artistic display; displaying your photo featuring your refrigerator's contents or your artistic creative license, imagination, differing mediums which answers the question:

"What's In Your Fridge???".
*Only hard copies will be accepted. Please do not send Jpegs.

Children may participate as well.....
More information on http://archangelappliancerepair.webs.com/photoscontest.htm Photo Contest page

Recycling Appliances

I wanted to hit a topic close to our hearts here at ArchAngel and why we are a Green Company... recycling appliances. Think about it! You order a fancy new stove.... with all the newest gadgets and widgets but what do you do with you old stove? Unless you are like my wife Kimberly and paint folk art, the only option is to throw it away.... She can turn anything into art, but I doubt your neighbors really want to see a bunch of appliances lying around.... so, What are you to do?

I thought about writing myself about this subject but found a wonderful website that I would like to recommend. The American Council for An Energy-Efficient Economy has a wonderful page which completely explains this subject and has great ideas for what to do with your old appliances. They also explain what happens to our environment when we do not correctly dispose of them.... I truly could not have explained these items better myself. This is easy reading and they have good tips.

Personally, I would like to suggest that you consider having your old appliances fixed and continue using them. The older appliances were made to last for a long time anyways. You can repaint them easily and spruce them up as well as buy new faceplates and covers for them. Got an old dishwasher? Buy a new faceplate. Voila! Shiny new dishwasher... Anyways, here is the information below to answer our latest question.... you can also read it yourself at

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/disposal.htm

I'm not sure if the links contained within the paragraphs will still work once on my various blogs.... so go to their page if they don't. I apologize, I'm an appliance expert, not a computer expert! ;)

Food for thought.....

ArchAngel

Question: How do I recycle my old appliances?

Appliance Recycling and Disposal

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Household appliances, like all consumer goods, require energy and resources in their creation, operation, and disposal. Environmental consequences after disposal may include the introduction of greenhouse gases, heavy metals and toxic chemicals into the environment. Refrigerators, air conditioners, electronics, and fluorescent lighting products pose particular risks to the environment that should be kept in check; however, consumers should minimize the impact of all disposed goods by recycling as much of the durable materials as possible (metals, plastics, glass) and by making themselves aware of and recovering any harmful substances involved. This reduces the impact of landfill waste as well as further mining of increasingly scarce resources.

Cooling equipment, such as refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers and room air conditioners involve refrigerants and insulating foams that release ozone-depleting substances and greenhouse gases once in a landfill. Older appliances may also contain PCBs or mercury. Newer products (made within the past 10 years) do not contain these toxic materials and use refrigerants and foam blowing agents that are less harmful to the ozone layer, but they still contribute greenhouse gas emissions. Federal law requires the removal and proper disposal of refrigerants but not foam products.

Most municipalities will pick up your old refrigerator, freezer or air conditioner with the bulk trash pick-up (you must call the city to arrange a pick-up). By law, the city must must dispose of refrigerants, PCBs and mercury properly. But first, contact your utility and read below to see if there is a rebate or bounty program in your area.

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Electronics, most notably televisions and computer monitors, involve a variety of recyclable and toxic materials, including plastics, glass, steel, gold, lead, mercury, cadmium beryllium, nickel, zinc, and brominated flame retardants, many of which can be recaptured and used again.

Several major electronics manufacturers have programs in place to accept their old hardware, usually as a trade-in upon purchase of a new unit. They are joined by retail stores, including Staples, Best Buy, Office Depot and Wal-Mart, who have programs to collect appliances such as computers, monitors, laptops, printers, faxes and all-in-ones for recycling in accordance with environmental laws.

Find a local e-waste recycling or donation program by visiting EPA's eCycling page.

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Lighting equipment is generally not treated as toxic waste, but fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, are an exception because they contain trace amounts of mercury. Although not regulated at the federal level, several states ban the disposal of CFLs in household trash.

Many towns and cities offer recycling opportunities for CFLs at local recycling centers or transfer stations. State requirements and recycling opportunities vary. To find out what programs are available in your state or region, go to www.epa.gov/bulbrecycling. For more information about the risks of CFLs, read the ENERGY STAR Fact Sheet (PDF)

If you have a fluorescent fixture in your basement or workroom that was manufacturered before 1979, the ballast may contain PCBs that must be disposed of responsibly under federal law. Go to www.lamprecycle.org for list of national lamp and ballast recyclers.

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Can I get a rebate for trading in my old appliance?

Your utility may even pay you to get rid of inefficient appliances. These programs usually involve an incentive on the order of $35 for the collection of old units, either in the form of cash or a rebate towards an ENERGY STAR replacement. A third party contractor that works with the utility will either come to you and pick up the appliance, or hold a turn-in event where you drop it of. Existing programs predominantly target old refrigerators; a few programs also offer a rebate for room air conditioners. Contractors ensure that the old units are disposed of properly.

Some companies that run bounty programs are ARCA Inc., JACO Environmental, and CSG. To bring a bounty program to your community, or for more information on bounty programs, try contacting your electricity provider, your local air protection government official, or the aforementioned companies.

Attention Real Estate Agents:

Real Estate Professionals & Homeowners-

We have Preventative Maintenance for Homes for Sale, Vacation/ Rental/ Apartment Building Properties Individual Calls or Contracts as well as Preferential Pricing with Productful and Prompt Service.

---Let us check out the appliances before you make that Sale! ...For a small fee we can not only save you money but also give your customers Ease of Mind and you Confidence in your product. We offer Warranty and are Insured. Let your new home buyers feel good about their purchase or as a home owner be aware and informed about where you stand in your appliance's life. You can save energy by keeping your appliances properly maintained as well....


Tip for the Day: Over time, the water hoses on washing smay leak or burst. It's a good idea to check these hoses from time to time for any sign of wear or weakness. Often there's a small blister in the rubber of the hose, which could rupture. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the hoses every 5 years. This is a small fix which could save you thousands not only in water damage fees for repairs, but taking pressure off your machine and saving you $$$ on water... while saving water for the environment.


Just food for thought....
ArchAngel

"Fridge Gone Wild" Contest

In this post: Fridge Gone Wild Contest Rules and Regulations; Maintaining your Refrigerator and Smart Buying Tips for Refrigerators
ArchAngel

Fridge Gone Wild Contest:

Eligibility :
ArchAngel Appliance Repair's Fridge Gone Wild Contest is open to legal residents of Western North Carolina, who are of the age of majority in the jurisdiction in which they reside (and at least 18 years of age). Children whom would like to participate must do so with the assistance of their parent.

Promotion Period :
The ArchAngel Appliance Repair's Fridge Gone Wild Contest (“Contest”) starts on June 10, 2009 at 12:01 AM Eastern Time (“ET”) and ends on August 15, 2009 at 11:59 PM ET (“Contest Period”).

How To Enter:
During the Contest Period, to enter, visit www.ArchAngelApplianceRepair.com and follow the directions provided on the photos page to submit a color photograph of your refrigerator displaying your photo featuring your refrigerator's contents. Submissions will be judged on creativity, uniqueness, overall look, humor, and how your refrigerator contents exemplifies Western North Carolina or you as a person/ hobbies/ etc. Photos must be original work by the individual and not copies or portrayed from other artists. Children (12 and under) may submit drawings in lieu of photography.

Limit :
Limit one (1) entry per person/email address/household.

Prize (s):

1st. 2nd and 3rd place & Child Winner prizes will each receive an ArchAngel Appliance Repair's "Fridge Gone Wild" Contest Certificate &

One (1) Grand Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Preventative Maintenance for Three Appliances valued at $99.95. and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $25.00.

One (1) Second Place Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Gift Certificate for One Appliance Repair valued at $90.00 (parts additional charge) and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $15.00.

One (1) Third Place Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: Preventative Maintenance for One Appliance valued at $39.95 and one Gift Card for Food Lion valued at $5.00.

One (1) Child Winner Prize will be awarded consisting of the following: $25.00 Fun Depot Card

Total ARV of all prizes:
299.90

Winners :
Winner’s name and photo posted on website (available after 8/20/09), visit www.ArchAngelApplianceRepair.com, or call 828-693-7905.

*All entries become the property of the ArchAngel Appliance Repair and will not be returned to the entrant. Submission of an entry shall constitute the grant of a non-exclusive, royalty free license to the ArchAngel Appliance Repair, and its' sublicensees, to reproduce, display, prepare derivative works, distribute to the public by sale or other transfer, and to utilize the photograph submitted for any purpose, including but not limited to publication on the World Wide Web, interpretive publications, and commercial uses. Entrants agree to grant to Sponsor and Organizer an everlasting, royalty-free, assignable, exclusive license to use, utilize, replicate, alter, adapt, modify, publish, broadcast, translate, produce derivative works from, distribute, present, play, sublicense and exercise all copyright and other intellectual property rights with respect to your contribution worldwide and/or to include your contribution in other works in any media now known or later created forever.

Child constitutes twelve years of age and under.

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Maintaining your Refrigerator
Here at ArchAngel we've seen just about everything... literally everything in folk's fridges but I found this shot on the net and couldn't resist posting! I know there have been times when I knew I opened my fridge something might walk out and eat me... all kinds of things grow in refridgerators, especially if you don't properly maintain them! Maintenance isn't just keeping them clean..... to properly maintain your refridgerator requires several things:

1. Clean the inside of the refrigerator regularly with a solution of baking soda and water, even if it doesn't seem to need it. This kind of care will also prevent odors from being absorbed.
2. a close check on the temperature... and that doesn't mean just look at the dials. From time to time stick a thermometer in there and get a true reading. Freezers should be kept at 0F (minus 18C) or lower and refrigerators should be at 40F (5C) or lower, but not so cold as to freeze. When taking the temperature be sure to place it between objects and not up against the wall as this gives an inaccurate reading. Read the thermometer in the morning or after the door has been shut for several hours. It is a good idea to do this at least once monthly. That way you can make note if you are beginning to have issues.
3. This leads to the next maintenance issue. Is your door seal intact? You don't want to waste money and electricity by having to consistently cool your fridge. This is also a go "green" issue. To test this use this dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal.
4. How close is your refrigerator spaced in relation to the wall? There should be adequate room for ventilation and heat control. Also, how close is it in relation to the stove? I never cease to be amazed at the layout of some kitchens! Who ever thought of putting the stove... an obvious heat source... next to the refridgerator? - If you are one of the poor souls to have your kitchen thus laid out, please do what you can to have your kitchen lay out changed and if you cannot make sure there is at least four inches between your stove and fridge. A typical refrigerator has to pull air at floor level across the coils if they are located on the bottom of the unit (some have coils buried in the sides) and across the fractional horsepower compressor at the rear. Hot air is going to effect the performance (and consequently) the life span of the refrigerator. If it has to run all the time it will shorten the life of your compressor. So, I suggest not placing these two appliances side by side and if you are forced to do so especially make sure your door seal is in good condition. The less pressure put on yoru compressor, the longer your refrigerator will run, and save you money from having to purchase another.
5. This is important: Vacuum the back of the refrigerator and underneath it. Remove the front grill and clean it as well. You must keep the air free flowing to keep the appliance running properly but also to prevent fires.
   
6. Empty the water pan from time to time if you find water in it. Make sure it is clean and free of food/objects and place it back under the refrigerator.
7. Have your local appliance repair man check your appliances one yearly for problems that may exist. We do a 10 point check on freezers and refrigerators to include: REFRIGERATOR/ FREEZER
   ” Clean condenser.
   ” Check and properly adjust thermostat and air dampers.
   ” Check automatic defrost cycle.
   ” Check door seals for air leaks.
   ” Clean defrost evaporation pan.
   ” Check defrost drain for blockage and leaks.
   ” Level cabinet.
   ” Check ice dispenser (if applicable) for proper operation.
   ” Check water dispenser (if applicable) for proper water flow.
   ” Inspect electrical system.
   
   

I found this buying smart guide on California's Energy Website and find it very informational and could not have better written it myself..... loads of info!

Buying Smart

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/refrigerators.html

Refrigerators

Refrigerators come with an EnergyGuide label that tells you in kilowatt-hours (kWh) how much electricity a particular model uses in a year. The smaller the number, the less energy the refrigerator uses and the less it will cost you to operate.

Before you go shopping, explore the Energy Star� product database. It lists high efficiency refrigerators, refrigerator-freezers, and freezers that exceed appliance efficiency standards - making it easier for you to decide which models to look for when you go shopping.

Also check with your local utility company to see if they are offering rebates on energy efficient models.

• Refrigerators with the freezer on either the bottom or top are the most efficient. Bottom freezer models use approximately 16 percent less energy than side-by-side models and top freezer models use about 13 percent less than side-by-side.


• Through-the-door icemakers and water dispensers are convenient and reduce the need to open the door, which helps maintain a more constant temperature; however, these convenient items will increase your refrigerator's energy use by 14 to 20 percent.


• Mini-doors give you easy access to items most often used. The main door is opened less often, which saves energy.


• Too large a refrigerator may waste space and energy. One that's too small can mean extra trips to the grocery store. Your best bet is to decide which size fits your needs, then compare the EnergyGuide label on each so you can purchase the most energy efficient make and model.


• A manual defrost refrigerator uses half the energy of an automatic defrost model but must be defrosted regularly to stay energy efficient.


• Refrigerators with anti-sweat heaters consume five percent to 10 percent more energy. Look for models with an "energy saver" switch that lets you turn down - or off - the heating coils (which prevent condensation).

Freezers

• Chest freezers are usually more efficient than upright freezers. Chest freezers are better insulated and cold air doesn't spill out when the door is opened.


• Automatic defrost freezers can consume 40 percent more electricity than similar manual defrost models.

Email Me With Questions or DIY Info

I know that not everyone wants to pay someone else to perform work for them.... I know if I can save some money I sure don't!
And besides, Let's face it fellas, some of us would just rather roll up our sleeves and Do It Ourselves!
We don't need help... right? So, if this describes you and you would like to ask me a question or point you in the right direction to handle your appliance yourself, feel free to send me a shout out to archangelappliance@yahoo.com or visit my business website and use the contacts page there....
www.ArchAngelApplianceRepair.com. If you have suggestions or questions you would like for me to take a swing at as well,
feel free to send those! I'll be posting just about every other day, so keep your eyes open for great tips, tidbits, and information that the other guys just wouldn't tell you.....

Blessings-
ArchAngel

The Robin Hood Event Sale

Our first 200 customers will be getting $30 off their Repair Fee! Call and make an appointment today!
Fully insured
10+ Years Experience
Knowledgable Friendly Staff
See our website for further information on the sale.