DIY Repair a Leaking Washing Machine

What do you do when you find that your washing machine is leaking? You could call and have us, ArchAngel Appliance Repair, come and fix it for you or you could simply purchase a new machine. Whether you have us come and fix it for you... costing $90 plus parts (unless in our intro period where you would get $30 off), or whether you buy another machine... you could end up spending your hard earned money.

You could just try and fix it yourself though! Below we will give you in layman's terms a quick response on how to fix your leak yourself! You will find out about hose, pump and tub leaks.

Different machines tend to have different problems. It is kind of like buying cars. Some brands produce lemons. And, you would be surprised that it is not always the more affordable brands that are lemon makers!

Ok, here goes!

First, you want to make sure that your floor drain is not plugged up with debris. Believe it or not, this could be a simple fix! We go on SOOOO many calls only to find this easy answer.

Washing machines come in two forms, the belt drive and the direct drive.

Upon opening the back of your machine.. pretty simple, just screws and screwdriver necessary... if you see belts then you've got a belt driven machine. If you don't, well then you've got a direct driven machine.

This picture is a belt driven machine.

If you have a direct drive machine, your owners manual should have pictures of the components in it. I'm sorry I just don't have a nice pic available and besides each looks different. Each one is different so you will need to refer to your owner's manual for diagrams. Also, there should be a number there to order parts. You may also call ArchAngel Appliance Repair and we can order parts for you or give you the number of our supplier.

The first thing you will want to do is replace any hoses you find that are leaking water. Make sure you emptied the washing machine of all clothing/ washing materials. Ok, now you want to move the machine away from the wall so you can watch what is going on and start a cycle. Look for drips around the supply hose from the wall. If you notice corrosion, cracks, or rusty hoses you definitely want to replace the no matter if you see leaks or not. Water and Electricity don't mix! Best to be safe and replace. If your hoses are fine I recommend replacing the internal washers at least... just another precaution. Since you are back there you might as well nip any bud that needs nipping! You can also check out your local home appliance part store or order through us special hoses. They make numerous types that 'promise' to not burst. Hoses cost anywhere from 6-20 dollars so that is much cheaper than new flooring.

The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Replacing the supply hoses is the easiest fix so we will start there.

Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores. Replacing them is very easy. They go on just like they come off! You will only need a set of adjustable pliers and a screw driver. Make sure to replace the gaskets with new ones while your'e at it....

Replacing the internal hoses would be the next issue if you see no leaks or issues with your supply hoses. Remember earlier we were talking about the two different types of machines? Well here is where that comes into play. If you opened your machine earlier when we were figuring this out, well then you won't need this info. If not... here is how to open your machine:: The belt drive machines usually have rear access panels that simply unscrew. So if this is you, go for it! Open that puppy up! If not, and you have a direct drive machine well then remove the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flip up the lid. You can then pull up the cabinet clips and take off the entire cabinet. Sounds tricky, huh? Well, it really isn't just sounds tricky. Next you want to start a cycle and watch for leaks. If you don't see leaks right away look for other clues that tell you there has been a leak. Remember, the weather makes air expand and contract. Your hoses can do the same thing depending on the temperature. Look for calcium and rust deposits. Where there is water, there will be deposits. It's kinda like my kiddos. Where there are children, there will be a long trail of fingerprints! The picture shows where you will find leaks most times too, or signs of leaks.

Do not touch your machine while running water or working a cycle! Simply watch. And, Always Always Always unplug the machine before making any repairs once you find the leaky culprit!

Now, most hoses are applied using something called a spring clamp. You remove these with your pliers. Look for leaks around these clamps. I suggest going ahead and nipping more buds by replacing these spring clamps with worm-drive clamps. You can get these at most local part suppliers. If you notice your hose is indeed cracked you will need a new one of those as well. You can order one through us if you need. Just get your model number and give us a call. If you have trouble finding your model number look on our website at http://www.archangelappliancerepair.com or click here: Visit My Website It looks like alot of reading but there are pictures below the intro info.

Now here is a tip. If you go to www.searspartsdirect.com. you will be able to find diagrams for your specific appliance. We never recommend actually purchasing from them though as the prices are a little steep. We use a supplier out of Spartanburg and Greenville and have software linked with them where we can see this information, but as an individual if you need diagrams and part numers using the Sears site works perfect. All you need is your model number and brand!

Another tip is if you are going to make face to face contact with a parts dealer, copy all your info on your model number plate. You never know what you may need and this can save you a trip. Some appliances require extra digits that others do not.

The next thing that may be leaking is your pump. Now, there isn't an easy way for me to tell you to replace this... we appliance guys just look at it and know. Now, this can be a very very challenging repair to do yourself and I only recommend for the true Do It Yourselfers with a good amount of tool experience. Depending on your brand and model you will need to study the drawings you have in your owners manual or by going to the Sears site I recommended earlier. You WILL NOT receive directions when you order parts. Remember that! The best advice I can give you is pay attention to how you take it apart and write notes. Then, just do the reverse on putting on the new pump. So, in the event you order parts and find you can't put the parts on, we can help you if you need. Just call us.

The last thing that could be causing your leak is worn out tub fittings. Again, this is not an easy repair. This is in my opinion the most challenging repair. You may need a new air dome seal, center post gasket, or tub seal itself. Each of these parts range in the $5 to $30 range.

If you have drips coming from around your tub, the tub seals are the issue and must be replaced. If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is causing your leak. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle. If you still have leaks the last thing to do is...

Again, you will need drawings and info from your parts supplier. You will also need a special wrench to complete the task of replacing these parts. You can get one for a bout $20. This is called a Spanner Wrench. You'll need the top of your machine open....You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Website ) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals which secure the outer tub to the cabinet itself. Each one has a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Sometimes rust collects around one of these seals and causes a leak. You can get a new tub seal kit and it will contain four new bolts along with a oversized rubber and metal washer for each that will seal small leaks. If you see only one leaking, fine, but go ahead and replace all four to be careful and again, nip those buds! You may also find that the tub is completely rusted through which would mean you need a new tub or machine. This is a decision based mainly on price of the tub versus price of a new machine. Each brand is different. We promote fixing your machine and keeping them out of landfills..... but the choice in the end is yours.

WELL! I don't know about your but I'm just about beat after all that writing! If you wanna give it a go and fix your own washer leak I hope this info helps. If you have any other questions just give me a holler at my blog or on my website and as always,

OH, one last thought......if you are looking into buying a new machine, I strongly advise a simple top loader. Those darned new confangled front loaders are much more trouble than they are worth. You can't go wrong with the simple versions.

Food for Thought,

ArchAngel